THE CHIRPY

The exquisite nature of Turkmen carpet weaving is well known and highlighted in dozens if not hundreds of publications by researchers around the world. Much less attention has been paid to Turkmen embroidery and costume. However, beautiful items of dress and embroidery are not just a marker of ethnic identity or the skills of Turkmen women artisans. Handwoven and artfully embroidered silk, wool and cotton clothing, along with jewellery and specific hairstyles, are embedded in rites of passage, marking the significant change of a girl or woman’s status in Turkmen society.

Turkmen women’s clothing is particular to the stages of a woman’s life and social status. Marriage was and is one of the important rites of passage in this community. The transition from young girl to woman resulted in major alterations to hairstyle, silver ornaments, clothing and embroidery motifs. Such significant changes can be observed especially in a young bride’s costume.

Hali Issue 224, p.98

The cloak-like CHYRPY worn by Turkmen women of the Tekke tribes is one of the most striking and essential elements of the bride’s traditional costume, and therefore a key element of the wedding ceremony.

Distinctive features of the CHYRPY, worn over the headdress, are false sleeves thinning towards the bottom and fastened with strips. The strip was covered with embroidery and could be decorated with a fringe and accompanied by amulets....

Hali Issue 224, p.100

For a full and fascinating account of the CHYRPY, see the Hali Issue 224 Summer 2025 article, 'Rites of Passage'.

Introduction

While Turkmen boy's and men's attire changes little form youth to old age, traditional Turkmen women's clothing is particular to the stages of a woman's life. Suezhanna Atanova delves into the significance of the CHYRPY. Her text is extracted from a major new book from Hali Publications on Central Asian Textiles out this autumn 2025.